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Bracket spacing & support

Brackets are where a good specification quietly succeeds or fails. Spaced right, a pole stays dead straight for years; spaced wrong, it bows. Here are the working distances.

Trade guide · 4 min read

A curtain pole held in wall brackets fixed with visible screws
Brackets: spaced to carry the run

Brackets are the least glamorous part of a curtain scheme and the part that decides whether it still looks right in five years. A pole bows for one of three reasons: too few brackets, too thin a pole, or a fixing that never had solid ground. Get the spacing right and the first of those disappears.

The working rule on spacing

As a practical starting point, supports should sit no more than about 50cm apart on a loaded track, and closer where the curtains are heavy. End brackets sit a short distance in from each end: a couple of centimetres, so the rings or gliders are not lost beyond them. The heavier the curtain and the wider the window, the tighter the spacing.

When a run needs a centre bracket

Two end brackets are fine for a short, light pole. But once a pole spans beyond roughly 1.5m, or carries a heavy curtain, the middle has nothing holding it up and will gradually bow. A centre bracket solves it; wider or heavier runs need several intermediate brackets, evenly spaced.

The pole-versus-track difference

On a pole, curtain rings pass on either side of a centre bracket but cannot cross it, so a centre-bracketed pole naturally suits a pair that meets in the middle. On a track, gliders run past the supports along the whole length, so intermediate brackets do not interrupt the draw. It is one of the quiet advantages of a track on a long run.

Bracket spacing: end brackets, a centre bracket past 1.5m, and intermediates A pole in elevation carried on brackets. End brackets sit a couple of centimetres in from each end; once a run passes about 1.5m or carries a heavy curtain a centre bracket is added, and wider or heavier runs add evenly spaced intermediate brackets, no more than about 50cm apart on a loaded run. WALL ≤ 50cm ≤ 50cm end centre intermediate intermediate end Add a centre bracket once a run passes ~1.5m or carries a heavy curtain
SupportKeep supports no more than ~50cm apart on a loaded run, closer for heavy curtains, with end brackets a couple of centimetres in from each end. Past ~1.5m or under weight, add a centre bracket. On a pole the rings pass either side but cannot cross it, which suits a pair meeting in the middle.

Support, diameter and weight are one decision

Spacing does not work in isolation. A heavier curtain wants both a thicker pole and closer brackets; you cannot fix a sag caused by an under-sized pole simply by adding supports, nor rescue a wide span on a thin pole however many brackets you use. Set the diameter and the spacing together. Our diameter and weight guide covers the load side of the same question.

And every bracket needs solid ground

The best spacing in the world fails if the fixing pulls out. Each bracket must bite into masonry, timber, or a noggin or batten: not bare plasterboard. Where the solid fixing does not line up with the spacing you need, add a batten behind the surface. Our wall vs ceiling fix guide covers what to look for behind wall and ceiling alike.

Common questions

How far apart should curtain pole brackets be?

As a working maximum, no more than about 50cm between supports for a loaded track, and closer for heavy curtains. A pole longer than roughly 1.5m generally needs a centre bracket in addition to the two ends; very wide or heavy runs need more again.

When do I need a centre bracket?

Once a pole spans beyond roughly 1.5m, or carries a heavy curtain, the two end brackets are not enough: a centre bracket stops the pole bowing under load. The wider and heavier the curtain, the more intermediate supports it needs.

Will a centre bracket stop the curtain drawing across?

On a pole, rings pass either side of a centre bracket but cannot cross it, so a centre-bracketed pole usually suits a pair meeting in the middle. On a track, gliders pass freely along the whole run.

How do I stop a pole sagging?

Match the diameter to the weight and span, add intermediate brackets so no unsupported section is too long, and fix every bracket into solid ground. Bowing is almost always too few brackets, too thin a pole, or a fixing that has pulled.

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